Alebrije’s is so popular that police officers park in the red zone right behind it and eat off the hoods of their Ford Interceptors. And this has been my public office for the past decade.

El Alebrije Oaxacan Streetfood serves nachos and fries for the crowd at the brewery where it’s parked, but also offers hard-to-find specialties such as chapulines and tacos de mole.

A mixed salad of crisp romaine and iceberg lettuces, tossed with chunky cucumbers and queso cotija, then drizzled with a creamy, sweet-and-spicy vinaigrette ($5.50), made a full meal.