Jandernoa’s family is also represented at Charis with a smattering of old photos. Rich hues of green, blue, and yellow are meant to evoke Lake Michigan and its backwoods and dunes in the summertime.

Jandernoa tapped another friend, Gina Hoover, who moved from New Orleans where she had previously worked at James Beard Award-winning bar Cure. “I came up to visit Chicago in August on a road ...