On the counter rests a small display of tiny bottles, each wrapped carefully in brown shipping paper and labeled with a green-and-white sticker that reads “Underberg.” Inside is 0.7 ounces — 20 ...

Meanwhile, back in D.C., the green-labeled bottles began to sprout up throughout the metro area. “It really picked up steam in 2016, and since then we’ve seen exponential growth,” Wells said.