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The octopus is prepared in advance in a court-bouillon broth, Bissonnette explained, before being brazed for 45 minutes and then char-grilled to order.

Get Food & Wine’s Grilled Octopus with Ancho Chile Sauce from star chef Tom Colicchio.

Thread the skewers in the order of octopus, oyster mushroom, shishito pepper and then repeat. Brush the skewers with the sauce on both sides.

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Heat the grill to 400 degrees, with direct heat on a grated grill. Coat the octopus with the ­remaining olive oil; season with salt and ­pepper. Grill the octopus on all sides to create a nice char.